Top makeup artist Ruby Hammer knows a thing or two about reviving a jet lagged, partied out or simply exhausted face . Here, she spills her makeup secrets for the times you need to look fresh, polished and Zoom-ready incredibly fast (like when you’ve overslept.)
Avoid Hydration Drainers
Having travelled the world for shoots and top fashion campaigns, Ruby knows a thing or two about reviving tired skin. Whether you are travelling or literally walking downstairs to your ‘office’ her no-no is alcohol , “If you really want to look fabulous , then do not have an alcoholic drink,” she says “Especially in the air, because it will make dehydration so much worse which will make you look worse.”
And her advice (for when we start flying again) is not to reach for the salty snacks. “Try not to have too much sodium or salt as it puffs you up in the ankles and the face,” she warns. This may mean you think about carrying your own healthier versions with you.
How to de-puff your face
If you find that you are prone to puffiness when you wake up, then Ruby suggests using a Jade roller, “I think these are fabulous,” she says, “You can roll the skin and under the eyes with it and using this means you then need to use less product.” One of our favourites is the Hayo’u Beauty Restorer , $46.98 a moulded piece of polished Jade which releases puffiness and re-boots cabin-suffocated skin. It stays cold too so is immensely refreshing on a fatigued face.
The Flash Facial
When you’re tired, Ruby is a big fan of applying light, fresh-looking makeup rather than caking it on, which she says won’t make you look more awake and could actually achieve the opposite.
Whether you are on a long haul flight or are waking in the night with young children , she suggests giving yourself a mini facial to revive skin. She suggests cleaning your face, then applying a dry sheet mask such as Charlotte Tilbury’s Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask, $29.66. or Trish McEvoy’s Instant Solutions Reusable Dry Sheet Mask, $22 both of which are very handy on the go if you don’t like the feel or the mess of the wet gloopy ones. if you’re at home, apply one of these whilst you’re drying your hair – even five minutes will help boost your skin.
Ruby is also a big fan of Sisley’s Express Flower Gel Mask, $92.14 which really plumps up skin in just 3 minutes, “If your skin looks lovely and hydrated,” she says, “You only need a touch of moisturiser afterwards.”
She always travels with a product such as Egyptian Magic All Purpose Skin Cream, $24.73 which is an all-purpose multitasking ointment you can use on cuticles, stray eyebrows or dry lips. “It’s important to make sure your lips don’t look cracked and malnourished if you need to look polished,” she says.
We don’t know a makeup artist who is not a fan of eyedrops for their ability to brighten red, scratchy eyes. ‘You definitely need some killer eye drops,” says Ruby, “When I’m in Italy I stock up on a brand called Imidazyl, and when I’m in the US I buy Lumify Eye Drops from Bausch and Lomb. I absolutely swear by them – they are a specialist eye care company and nearly every makeup artist I know uses them. They instantly relieve redness and make eyes sparkle – if you can bring your eyes back to life you’re half way there.”
Ruby stresses the importance of not applying a heavy base of makeup unless you really need it because it can actually make tired skin look even more fatigued. ‘You don’t need to do full foundation, what you need is a really great concealer’ she says. Ruby is a huge fan of the Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer, $29.67 which she suggests using in place of base, but where you really need it – around the eyes, the nose, the chin and to cover any blemishes.
Face masks can leave your skin shiny so she then suggests taking the shine off with a blot proof paper or a powder. One of our favourites is Fenty’s Invisimatte Blotting Paper, $16, which comes on a roller dispenser you can refill.
Go for Glow
No glow? No problem. It’s easy to fake one with a touch of cream blush. Ruby loves using Bobbi Brown’s Pot Rouge $39.65, (which you can also apply to lips) or Jillian Dempsey’s Cheek Tint, $32.76. Alternatively she loves Trish McEvoy’s Beauty Booster Lip and Cheek Balm, $37. If you aren’t a fan of cream blushers, Ruby says you can beat a powder blusher for control and staying power.
You don’t need to pile on thick, heavy eye makeup to brighten tired eyes, “You need to look clean and crisp, not like you’re going out to a nightclub,’ says Ruby. However what she does recommend is a lick of mascara and a neutral or mink-coloured eyeshadow. Ruby suggests Bobbi Brown’s Eye Shadows, $35.86 which come in many shades of neutral but also Maybelline’s The Nudes Eyeshadow Palette, $14.82 which is amazing value for money. Dust lightly over the upper eyelid with Ruby’s Magnetic Brush Set, $34.62 which cleverly contains three brushes in with different shaped tips.
‘Go for a mascara that gives volume and definition, not flakiness and clogging,’ says Ruby who loves the Hourglass Extreme Caution Lash Mascara, $51.29, a beauty editor favourite.
Continuing the fresh-faced look, Ruby suggests skipping lip liner and full blown lipstick in favour of a sheer, coloured balm. One of her absolute favourites is the Tom Ford Beauty Sheer Lip Color which comes in various shades, $55.
Finally, Ruby suggests having an aromatherapy oil roller ball on hand such as the Revive Morning Rollerball from Aromatherapy Associates, $22.26, which not only will smell incredible but it can lift your mood. ‘Inhale deeply a few times,” she says, “And you’re good to go.”
Ruby’s Magnetic Brush Set is available at rubyhammer.com
Well-travelled hair is often not happy hair. It’s normally been rolled around on, had some headphones knotted in it or squashed somewhere around a neck pillow and a rather nasty seat protector. But you don’t have to arrive at your destination in a tangle. Here’s our on-the-go guide to hair styling on the fly.
The In-flight Tousle
If you love the tousled look but can’t achieve it without your beloved hair tongs, then Jonathan Soons, Creative Ambassador for Headmasters salons, has the answer. For hair that’s below the shoulders, he suggests ‘the grown-up braid’ which he says, is a modern look that will also transform hair into soft waves on the go. The key he says, is “The bigger the braid, the better it is for creating waves, so you don’t get that crimping effect.” Jonathan suggests trying French braids or Heidi-esque braids as they’re comfortable on planes, trains and automobiles, and he explains, the messier they get, the better they tend to look.
With no need for styling tools or lots of product (just some clear elastics and some Kirby grips) you just need to know how to plait the hair. Jonathan offers some help:
“For a Heidi braid, add a middle parting and then divide the hair into two equal sections. Secure each side into bunches behind the ear with a clear elastic. Plait each bunch, then pull one of them over the top of the head an inch away from the hair line. Secure the plait to the head by weaving pins underneath it and repeat on the other side.”
Twenty minutes before you are due to arrive at your destination, loosen your braids and brush through with your fingers or a Manta brush (which doesn’t damage the hair) for an undone wave.
On The Fly Hair Fixes
Different hair types react in different ways especially if you’re at 35 Thousand feet. Whilst some might stand on end, others lie down flat and refuse to perk up. Below are some tips for products you may want to stash in your carry-on.
If your hair is static
If your hair is prone to looking like it’s been electrocuted , then Jonathan Soons recommends using the Manta brush because it’s anti-static. He also suggests smoothing hair with a touch of serum to calm flyaways. One product we have discovered recently that is a hair travel essential is Hershesons Almost Everything Cream, $12.36 which you can use to style or tame hair, your choice. Hershesons.com
If your hair is greasy
An early morning start, a stressful long day and a long journey or day in the city can leave your hair greasy and dirty-looking. Modern hair brand Living Proof do great travel-sized versions of their clever products. We are fans of their Perfect Hair Day Dry Shampoo, $14 which is designed to absorb sweat, oil and odour. Weightless with a time release fragrance it’s the next best thing to a wash. Spray at the roots of hair and style as you would normally. (The Instant De-Frizzer $18.55 is also great for taming wild hair on the go.)
You have those annoying flyaways around the hairline
If you’ve had a baby in the last few years you will absolutely comprehend the strange new hair flyaways that grow through like a weird tufty fringe. Thankfully there are products at hand specifically to tame them like the John Frieda Full Repair Touch-up Flyaway Tamer, $47.45
If your hair is flat
If you have the type of hair that loses volume instantly after styling then it will probably lie flat before you reach maximum altitude. Jonathan recommends stashing some L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.ART Super Volume & Texture Dust, $15.10 in your hand luggage which he says will help give height to hair. Sprinkle onto the roots and massage in slightly.
If your hair is frizzy around the hairline
If your hair is prone to springing into frizz around the hairline the minute it gets sweaty or damp, I have a tip I once learnt from legendary hair stylist Eugene Souleiman. Take the inflight toothbrush (obviously if you’re not using it on your teeth) or one you know longer need at home and spray its brush with hairspray. Comb firmly through your hairline to fix the frizzies. Try John Frieda Frizz Ease Moisture Barrier Hairspray, 75ml, $3.09 which is handbag sized.
If you need to wash and go
If you can’t face decanting your shampoo bottle, or if you have a layover and need a handy option then pack a shampoo bar instead of a liquid version. We are big fans of Nutandnoggin.com shampoo bars which use natural ingredients and beer (yes beer!) to leave hair not only super clean but incredibly shiny. And it won’t get taken away at back check.
The No-mirror Up-Do
One no-heat, no tool technique that’s guaranteed to leave hair with body and a blow-dry worthy wave is the ballerina bun technique. Tried and tested successfully by the 35Thousand team, the key is to wash and blowdry hair smooth before you leave home, using a product such as Morroccanoil $35.11 Amazon.com. Whilst it’s still warm, tie it in a bun at the crown of your head, leaving out the ends so they don’t kink under the band. “Take the hair down a few hours later or before the plane lands,” says Jonathan Soons, “And shake from the root to help it fall properly and frame the face.”
As with most things, if it’s not working, try looking at it from different perspective. This is the case I find with hair – if your side parting isn’t working maybe try wearing it central for a change or switch it to the other side. If you usually wear your hair down, but its too flyway/ messy/ lank, then throw it up in a chignon for an instantly chic new look. You never know, it might even give you a new lease of life. Always keep a mini kit of see-through bands and some Kirby grips to hand just in case.
No Plug, No Problem
Who said not having a plug socket needs to hinder your hairstyle? Kiss goodbye to unaffective styling tools and say hello to the new wave of cordless power stylers.
Babyliss 9000 Portable straightener $247.28 (babyliss.co.uk)
Once you’ve charged this new state of the art straightener, it will stay hot (properly hot) for 30 minutes. Full size, with ceramic plates, testers have reported it leaves hair just as mirror-like and smooth as their usual plug-in version.
The Balmain Paris Hair Couture Universal Cordless Straightener, $375 (netaporter.com)
This super stylish portable straightener is small enough to slip into your hand luggage but powerful enough to style the most difficult of hair. In white titanium it also doubles up as a curling iron when you want luscious waves.
Sleep-in rollers, $3.71 Boots for 6
Ok, you may feel a little silly wearing rollers through Check In (and they may question you in passport control), but if you’re planning to sleep on a long haul flight you could do worse than to pop a few of these in cleanly washed hair and pass out. Expect to wake to soft, bouncy waves.
If all else fails, Accessorize
It’s worth stashing a few hair accessories in your hand luggage just in case your hair is past the point of no return.
Hair bands are still of the moment and look great whether you are attending a board meeting or are heading to New York’s hippest hangout. They also look great worn with hair scraped into a bun. You’ll find a great collection at Anthropologie and also Born in the Sun, both of which offer some very chic hair clips too which provide a great distraction for rebellious hair. This Lorelia hair band is $34.62 and the hair clip in the main image are from Anthropologie.com