Top makeup artist Ruby Hammer knows a thing or two about reviving a jet lagged, partied out or simply exhausted face . Here, she spills her makeup secrets for the times you need to look fresh, polished and Zoom-ready incredibly fast (like when you’ve overslept.)
Avoid Hydration Drainers
Having travelled the world for shoots and top fashion campaigns, Ruby knows a thing or two about reviving tired skin. Whether you are travelling or literally walking downstairs to your ‘office’ her no-no is alcohol , “If you really want to look fabulous , then do not have an alcoholic drink,” she says “Especially in the air, because it will make dehydration so much worse which will make you look worse.”
And her advice (for when we start flying again) is not to reach for the salty snacks. “Try not to have too much sodium or salt as it puffs you up in the ankles and the face,” she warns. This may mean you think about carrying your own healthier versions with you.
How to de-puff your face
If you find that you are prone to puffiness when you wake up, then Ruby suggests using a Jade roller, “I think these are fabulous,” she says, “You can roll the skin and under the eyes with it and using this means you then need to use less product.” One of our favourites is the Hayo’u Beauty Restorer , $46.98 a moulded piece of polished Jade which releases puffiness and re-boots cabin-suffocated skin. It stays cold too so is immensely refreshing on a fatigued face.
The Flash Facial
When you’re tired, Ruby is a big fan of applying light, fresh-looking makeup rather than caking it on, which she says won’t make you look more awake and could actually achieve the opposite.
Whether you are on a long haul flight or are waking in the night with young children , she suggests giving yourself a mini facial to revive skin. She suggests cleaning your face, then applying a dry sheet mask such as Charlotte Tilbury’s Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask, $29.66. or Trish McEvoy’s Instant Solutions Reusable Dry Sheet Mask, $22 both of which are very handy on the go if you don’t like the feel or the mess of the wet gloopy ones. if you’re at home, apply one of these whilst you’re drying your hair – even five minutes will help boost your skin.
Ruby is also a big fan of Sisley’s Express Flower Gel Mask, $92.14 which really plumps up skin in just 3 minutes, “If your skin looks lovely and hydrated,” she says, “You only need a touch of moisturiser afterwards.”
She always travels with a product such as Egyptian Magic All Purpose Skin Cream, $24.73 which is an all-purpose multitasking ointment you can use on cuticles, stray eyebrows or dry lips. “It’s important to make sure your lips don’t look cracked and malnourished if you need to look polished,” she says.
We don’t know a makeup artist who is not a fan of eyedrops for their ability to brighten red, scratchy eyes. ‘You definitely need some killer eye drops,” says Ruby, “When I’m in Italy I stock up on a brand called Imidazyl, and when I’m in the US I buy Lumify Eye Drops from Bausch and Lomb. I absolutely swear by them – they are a specialist eye care company and nearly every makeup artist I know uses them. They instantly relieve redness and make eyes sparkle – if you can bring your eyes back to life you’re half way there.”
Ruby stresses the importance of not applying a heavy base of makeup unless you really need it because it can actually make tired skin look even more fatigued. ‘You don’t need to do full foundation, what you need is a really great concealer’ she says. Ruby is a huge fan of the Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer, $29.67 which she suggests using in place of base, but where you really need it – around the eyes, the nose, the chin and to cover any blemishes.
Face masks can leave your skin shiny so she then suggests taking the shine off with a blot proof paper or a powder. One of our favourites is Fenty’s Invisimatte Blotting Paper, $16, which comes on a roller dispenser you can refill.
Go for Glow
No glow? No problem. It’s easy to fake one with a touch of cream blush. Ruby loves using Bobbi Brown’s Pot Rouge $39.65, (which you can also apply to lips) or Jillian Dempsey’s Cheek Tint, $32.76. Alternatively she loves Trish McEvoy’s Beauty Booster Lip and Cheek Balm, $37. If you aren’t a fan of cream blushers, Ruby says you can beat a powder blusher for control and staying power.
You don’t need to pile on thick, heavy eye makeup to brighten tired eyes, “You need to look clean and crisp, not like you’re going out to a nightclub,’ says Ruby. However what she does recommend is a lick of mascara and a neutral or mink-coloured eyeshadow. Ruby suggests Bobbi Brown’s Eye Shadows, $35.86 which come in many shades of neutral but also Maybelline’s The Nudes Eyeshadow Palette, $14.82 which is amazing value for money. Dust lightly over the upper eyelid with Ruby’s Magnetic Brush Set, $34.62 which cleverly contains three brushes in with different shaped tips.
‘Go for a mascara that gives volume and definition, not flakiness and clogging,’ says Ruby who loves the Hourglass Extreme Caution Lash Mascara, $51.29, a beauty editor favourite.
Continuing the fresh-faced look, Ruby suggests skipping lip liner and full blown lipstick in favour of a sheer, coloured balm. One of her absolute favourites is the Tom Ford Beauty Sheer Lip Color which comes in various shades, $55.
Finally, Ruby suggests having an aromatherapy oil roller ball on hand such as the Revive Morning Rollerball from Aromatherapy Associates, $22.26, which not only will smell incredible but it can lift your mood. ‘Inhale deeply a few times,” she says, “And you’re good to go.”
Ruby’s Magnetic Brush Set is available at rubyhammer.com
We don’t know about you, but we’re not a pretty sight right now. We set out at the beginning of the Corona crisis with the best of intentions beauty-wise, but have since let it all slip. What happens, when you need to look half decent for an important Zoom call (or God forbid a real life meeting or a date) when you have spent the last few months channeling your inner scarecrow? We asked Hannah Martin, Professional Make Up artist, and co-host of the Life & Lipstick podcast , for her mega-boosting skin and makeup tricks.
You may have been stuck inside with nothing but a computer for company over the last three months, and if so your skin will look brighter and more rejuvenated if it is well hydrated – often fine lines can be reduced and glow enhanced just by upping skin’s moisture levels. Hannah is a fan of Drunk Elephant B Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum $49.46 which she also uses on flights when hydration levels are really low. “For an extra boost or if skin is really dry I apply a light layer of face cream on top,” she says “My favourites are Shiseido’s Benefiance Nutri Perfect range and Beauty Pie’s Super Healthy Skin.” If her skin needs some intense nourishing she uses Votary oils who use natural plant-based oils to nourish the skin gently.” She tells us she always has Clarins Lip Perfector lip balms, $22.87 with her at all times to keep her lips soft and supple and add a hint of colour (without looking overdone.)
For a Zoom-ready glow…
If you have a special meeting, a date or you just fancy giving your skin a treat, try a super hydrating sheet mask – preferably one that is packed with Hyaluronic acid – a key ingredient which can hold up 1000 times its weight in water. Hannah suggests applying to clean skin and allowing all the goodness to be absorbed for a good 10 minutes (great to wear while you sip your coffee), before you apply your makeup. “This will instantly plump up any of those surface dehydration lines and ensure makeup sits smoothly” Hannah says. One of her favourites is the Seoulista Gold Glow Instant Facial $17.31.
Good to Glow
If your skin hasn’t see the light of day since the beginning of lockdown, Hannah suggests packing a Vitamin C serum for brightening skin – she is a fan of Drunk Elephant C Firma Day Serum, $82.84 that she applies to cleansed skin every morning. If she’s particularly tired or jet-lagged from travelling (pre Corona) she also uses a Hyaluronic acid to plump up tired looking skin and does a little face massage to encourage lymphatic drainage and reduce puffiness. You don’t have to be an expert she says “Simply tapping your face in upwards motions using the tips of your fingers really gets the blood circulating, helping you look fresh.”
If you spend a lot of your day at your computer, or your eyes are red and sore then rehydrate them with eye drops. Hannah suggests Optrex Eye Drops, $18.53 which not only refresh your eyes, but they can illuminate and reduce that scratchy feeling. If your eyes feel a little puffy then the Chantecaille Gold Energising Eye Recovery Masks $195 for 8 pairs can be great to apply to rehydrate the skin around the eyes. “They may not drastically reduce the appearance of bags but they feel wonderfully refreshing,” she says.
Back to Base
If your skin is on the dry side Hannah says she avoids a silicone based foundation as it tends to absorb moisture and make her skin look even more parched. Some of her favourite hydrating skin saviours are Trinny’s BFF Skin Perfector, $46.50 or Laura Mercier’s Tinted Moisturiser, $43.27.
If your skin needs more coverage however, Hannah likes IT Cosmetics Illuminating CC cream, $39.50 which, she says, will make your skin look bright and fresh whilst evening your squinting. She is also a big fan of Ciate London’s Matchmaker blush, $27.20 which she uses on all skin tones to bring life and glow back to sallow cheeks.
Eyes can be a real fatigue giveaway. To put the sparkle back into yours, Hannah firstly suggests grooming your brows upwards with the Blink Brow Bar Brow build, $25.96 which will frame your eyes and immediately create a more polished look. She then suggests lining the eyes (whether smudged, winged, subtle or strong) which is essential for making eyes look more awake. She loves Nars Long Wear Liner, $23.49 and adds a few coats of Hourglass Caution Mascara $29 onto curled lashes (she swears by Tweezerman lash curlers, $21.02). She finishes with her favorite Clarins Lip Perfector (no 7 is her favourite, a toffee pink.).
You don’t have to buy lots of tools to create flawless skin, but Hannah suggests the following for an on-the-go perfected look: a foundation brush or sponge so you don’t make a mess or get lots of makeup on your hands; a powder brush that you can use for powder, blush and bronzer, and a simple shadow brush for eyes.
Hannah says that hydrated lips can make a tired face look fresh, whilst dry, cracked lips can make your face seem less youthful. She always uses lip balm so her lips are ready for any lipstick. Finally, she has a tip for when we go out into the world again , “If at any point your makeup looks tired, carry a tiny bottle of facial oil and dab the smallest amount on cheekbones to bring your skin back to life.” We love Lixirskin’s Night Switch Essential Lipids, $29.67 which can be used as a treatment or as a travel-friendly boost for parched skin.
Hannah is a professional makeup artist and the co-host of the Life & Lipstick podcast @hannahmartinmakeup.